PEARL DIVING IN QATAR

– Interview by Fai Al-Naimi

Dear readers,

This letter explores the deep-rooted history of Qatar’s pearl diving tradition that continues to shape the nation’s identity. Central to this exploration is the perspective of Mohammed Abdulla Al-Sada, one of the few remaining Qataris who continue to practice the craft today. His dedication offers rare insight into a heritage that has long defined the cultural fabric of the country. Al-Sada’s commitment to preservation goes beyond the act of diving itself. More than a profession, pearl diving stands as a testament to the courage, patience, and ingenuity of generations who forged their lives around the sea. Preserving this heritage is not simply about remembrance; it is an effort to sustain these narratives so that future generations can

recognize and take pride in the legacy that shaped the nation. It remains a memory that time will never erase—an enduring chapter in the history of a land once defined by its pearl fishers.

Could you tell us about how your journey into pearl diving began? What role did your family play in shaping your connection to this longstanding tradition?

I come from a place where the sea is part of our identity. Qatar is a peninsula, and most of our towns are along the coast. My family’s village, Al Ruwais in the north, is no different. For generations, my family—the Al-Sada—lived by the water, and our grandfathers were pearl divers for as long as we can remember. My grandfather Hussain was a diver, and so was my uncle. My father, however, arrived at a time when the pearl industry was collapsing, and the oil boom and the aftermath of the First World War had devastated the market, causing many people to abandon the profession. Despite that, the knowledge never really left our family. I first went into the sea to fish. I even planned to start a small fishing venture. But my father stopped me. He reminded me of our family’s roots and said, “You’re already diving. You see oysters every day. Leave the fish and go look for the pearls. Maybe you’ll find a big Dana.” At the time, I ignored his advice because fishing felt easier. But eventually, his words stayed with me, and I shifted fully to pearl diving. When I started using old maps to reach the historic diving spots, something changed. When I visit these historic locations, I often find artifacts left by divers of the past. It feels as if I am with them, even though they are no longer here. Today, I am one of the few Qataris still diving for pearls, and it is rare to encounter anyone else in these waters. Most boats I see are only fishing, overlooking the oyster beds our ancestors worked so hard to protect. Sometimes it feels lonely, but those connections with the past keep me going, reminding me of the legacy I continue to cherish.

What does the term "Haairat" mean, and how did you learn about the pearl diving sites in Qatar?

“Haairat” refers to the oyster beds, “haair” in the singular and “haairat” in the plural. These are the natural seabed areas where oysters grow, and Qatar has a huge amount of them stretching from the northern coast down to the southeast. Some of these beds are massive, extending nine kilometers wide or even more, each one holding a wide variety of oysters unique to the area.

I learned about these sites gradually through time spent at sea. Back then, I didn’t pay much attention to them as I was focused on fishing. My father would recount the location of the beds and my grandfather's stories when he was a pearl diver. As I grew older, I began collecting oysters more intentionally, and about eight years ago, I committed myself to studying the “haairat” closely. From then on, I started recognizing each site by its depth and the kinds of oysters it carried.

Could you describe a typical day during your diving expeditions, including your preparation and the key events involved?

A typical diving day begins long before I reach the waters. I always start by checking the weather forecast to make sure conditions are safe. Calm days without strong winds or heavy waves are ideal because they allow me to travel farther out, where the oysters tend to be healthier and the chances of finding pearls are higher. If the forecast looks good for the day, I prepare my equipment and head out before sunrise. Once I reach the chosen “haair”, I set up my gear and get ready for the first dive.

When I first started my pearl diving journey, those days were much harder. I used to dive alone, which is extremely risky, but at the time, very few people understood why I wanted to dedicate myself to pearl diving. Whenever I asked friends to join, they would tell me it wasn’t worth the effort. So, for a long stretch, my expeditions were entirely solo. Eventually, after gaining experience and confidence, I realized I needed proper support. I hired a crew member and later brought a safety body from Zanzibar. Now we work together as a team, following strict safety measures and moving efficiently through each stage of the expedition.

Traditionally, pearl diving expeditions were long and demanding, often lasting many weeks at sea. From your experience, do you have a preferred pearl diving method, and if so, why? How long does the entire expedition typically last today?

I practice both freediving and scuba diving, but it’s difficult to compare what we do today with what our ancestors practiced. Their conditions were far tougher. They had almost nothing, just simple dhow boats, basic tools, and only the wind and their own strength to rely on. Reaching a single “haair” could take days, and once they arrived, they had to dive repeatedly with no modern equipment, depending entirely on discipline and teamwork. When I think about what they achieved with so little, I can only look at their way of life with deep respect. Today, our experience is completely different. Modern boats, navigation systems, and diving gear give us speed and efficiency that the old divers could have never imagined. The same distance can be covered in a fraction of the time, which completely changes the rhythm of an expedition.

Traditionally, pearl diving followed long seasonal cycles, commonly known as the “big season”. This season lasted about four months and ten days, and there were also several other smaller seasons throughout the year. Altogether, divers worked nearly seven months at sea, living away from home under harsh conditions. My expeditions, in comparison, last only a single day. I dive year-round, but only when the conditions are right. A full expedition for me usually starts at 5 a.m., I leave home by 7 a.m. and drive up to my desired location to launch the boat. Once we reach the chosen site, we dive throughout the day and return late in the evening, often around 11 p.m. So, most of my expeditions end up being about fifteen hours long from start to finish.

What are the main differences between traditional pearl diving and modern pearl diving practiced today? What modern tools or equipment have you integrated, and which traditional methods have you preserved?

I use both freediving and scuba diving, depending on the depth and the goal of the dive. Freediving is very much the traditional method, just as our ancestors did, using a rock to descend along a rope with a net around the neck to collect oysters, except I integrate fins and goggles. This type requires significant stamina and breath-holding; mine is within six minutes and twenty-five seconds. I usually start my expeditions with freediving for an hour or so, especially when exploring new spots. Once I locate a promising area, I may switch to scuba diving since tanks give me the flexibility to take my time on the seabed to explore further and to document my journey with my camera.

Although modern tools allow us to work more efficiently and safely. I intentionally preserve traditional techniques in my practice, especially freediving, because it connects me to the methods and endurance of the old divers. For example, the dive spot called Al-Busawa, sixty kilometers from Al-Ruwais, has strong currents and great depth. Our ancestors used to dive there for months at a time under extreme conditions. Their resilience and patience for the sake of survival and earning a living are truly extraordinary.

I often found traces of the past, commonly known as “athareyat”, like wooden boat pieces, an archaeological stone anchor known as “alsen”, and weight stones known as “alhayyar”. Some are estimated to be over a hundred years old. Knowing I was diving in the exact places my ancestors once worked created a connection I couldn’t ignore. Since then, I’ve remained dedicated to pearl diving, always searching for the rare “Al-Dana” pearl that hides deep in the seabed. Our waters still hold millions of oysters, and I believe the Qatari sea remains full of treasures yet to be found.

The ocean presents many unpredictable challenges, such as strong currents, high tides, and sudden weather changes. How do you navigate these conditions during your dives?

The ocean is unpredictable in nature, and even with all safety precautions, accidents can happen. Therefore, safety is always my top priority. I make sure to have a life jacket on board, and I inform the coast guard of my location and expected time of return. It is crucial to bear in mind that conditions can change quickly. Strong winds, high tides, and powerful currents can turn a routine dive into a dangerous situation, so preparation is essential. I remember one dive vividly. I was at a depth of twenty meters and found two unusually large oysters. This is a rare occurrence, so I couldn’t leave the oysters behind. As I tried to bring them to the surface, the weight combined with the depth caused me to blackout. Thankfully, my friend was there and pulled me to safety.

Experiences like that remind me to acknowledge the immense power of the sea. I often think that if something is meant for you, the journey will be eased, but skill, knowledge, and preparation are what keep you alive. I always compare diving to driving a car. Without the right training and experience, it becomes dangerous. Despite all these challenges, diving for pearls is deeply rewarding. It demands discipline and constant awareness of the sea, and for me, it’s a challenge worth taking.

Pearl diving involves a mix of skills seen in many sports. How do the physical and mental demands of pearl diving overlap with those in sports?

Pearl diving demands physical strength, endurance, and mental focus, but more than that, it teaches patience and respect for the sea. Diving is a sport, but the ocean is the one setting the rules. To be a good diver, you need experience and stamina, which you build over the years. When you dive constantly, you learn your body's limits, its strengths, how far you can go, and when it’s time to resurface again. Especially in free diving, you have to listen to every signal your body gives you. That kind of awareness doesn’t come from books or machines; it comes from being in the water day after day.

Like an athlete, you have to follow a routine, prioritizing exercise, diet, and sleep. You can’t dive if your body isn’t ready. I rarely see divers who smoke or neglect their health because, really, your body is your tank. Swimming against the current, holding your breath, diving deep, your body does it all. There are also long-term challenges. Older divers, for instance, suffered from sinus problems, hearing loss, and even decompression sickness because they didn’t know how to equalize or take care of themselves properly. I’ve faced some of these issues myself, so I make it a point to check with doctors and take care of my health on a regular basis.

Through your diving journeys, how has climate change influenced pearl diving and the surrounding marine ecosystem? What personal efforts or initiatives do you undertake to preserve and protect the marine environment from these effects?

As a pearl diver, I have seen firsthand how human activity and environmental changes affect the sea. Many factors disturb oyster beds. For instance, large commercial ships create strong currents and stir up the seabed, covering oysters in sediment and suffocating them. Yet, some areas far from shipping routes, particularly around the northern islands like Haloul, remain pristine. Needless to say, I put in the effort to document everything I see, both the beauty and the damage, on my social media, to show people the reality of the sea and raise awareness about protecting it.

On a personal level, I am careful not to take everything I find. I don’t harvest young oysters or those covered in coral. Instead, I move methodically, assessing each oyster before deciding to take it. I only collect what is mature and healthy. My goal is to explore and collect sustainably, respecting the existing marine ecosystem.

What distinguishes Qatari pearls from those found elsewhere, and what qualities make them particularly special?

What sets Qatari pearls apart is their unique white color and brilliant lustre. When placed in direct sunlight, they shine with a radiant glow. For over a thousand years, divers have journeyed to the east coast of Qatar in search of these pearls, and their beauty has been admired across generations. Qatari pearls are not just known for their color, but also for their size and perfectly round shape. Today, with so many artificial pearls on the market, finding a natural one has become even rarer, which makes them all the more precious. When you find a pearl with perfect lustre, ideal size, and that distinctive white color, you hold something truly unique, something that cannot be replicated.

That natural beauty is truly exceptional.

Once you have collected the oysters, could you explain the proper technique for opening them? What is the proper way of storing pearls when found?

We use a special tool called a “meflga”, a knife made of steel, to open oysters.

It looks like a traditional knife, but it isn’t very sharp. Its design is intentional, so it doesn’t scratch the pearl inside or injure you if it slips from your hand. Any scratch would immediately reduce the pearl’s value. I start by carefully cutting the muscle that keeps the oyster closed. Once that is done, it’s easier to open. After opening the oyster, I inspect the inside carefully. If I find a pearl, I clean it with fresh water and use a small bowl called a “tasah” to separate pearls by size and shape. Finally, I store them in labeled bags according to their size and the location where they were collected, ensuring each pearl is properly preserved for future use.

Given the rarity of pearls, how do you maintain patience and motivation during dives when success is uncertain?

At the end of the day, nothing is guaranteed. If God wills it, I will find the Al-Dana pearl, maybe today, maybe years from now. Every dive is unpredictable. I open oysters and often find small pearls, but I am searching for the rare, large ones. However, those smaller pearls are reminders that I am on the right path and that one day, I will find the big ones.

Over the years, I have learned to manage frustration and stay patient. I set multiple goals for myself, not just one, because. This is because, unlike athletes who compete in a championship for a gold medal, the reality of pearl diving is different. It requires long-term dedication and a love for the process and the art itself. Studying the history of pearling, not just in Qatar, but globally, helps me appreciate the unpredictable nature of pearls. While the most valuable pearls come from the seas of the GCC, countless other pearls are waiting to be discovered around the world. For instance, regions such as the Red Sea, the coasts of South America, and the Caribbean are among the areas I am eager to explore.

In your view, what initiatives or developments are essential to reignite passion for maritime heritage and pearl diving in the country?

The sea is an integral part of Qatar, and protecting it is as important as honoring our history. Our true connection lies within the sea, which surrounds our land and is three times its size. All my efforts aim to reignite passion for Qatari pearls and our maritime heritage amongst the local community. Through directing and presenting my TV program on Qatar TV, creating content for social media, and designing custom jewelry that reflects the exact origin and location of each pearl, I strive to connect people to the history and beauty of our heritage. I believe it is vital to remind the younger generation of the sacrifices and dedication of our ancestors. Pearl diving was not just a job; it was a lifeline that helped build Qatar. Without their courage and sacrifice, survival in these lands would have been nearly impossible. Protecting the diving spots and preserving that ecosystem must remain a priority to ensure that future generations can experience this heritage firsthand. I would say that education is key, both about marine life and the skills and knowledge of pearl diving. Ministries such as the Ministry of Environment and Climate Change have a critical role to play, but each of us must also take responsibility to safeguard this heritage for the future.

With greetings from Qatar,

Fai Al-Naimi